The driveshaft universal joint to be removed. This doesn’t rotate smoothly – it’s very clunky – so a new one will be installed after the shaft is painted.

 

First step is to remove the retaining C-clips. Any tool with a point will do for this.

 

Now the u-joint will be able to move (forcibly, not freely) for the next step. Put a socket larger than the u-joint bearing cap underneath, like shown, and a smaller one on top, also like shown. Hit the top, smaller, one and the whole u-joint will move down with the bottom bearing cap going into the larger socket. Once the lower cap is out of the drive shaft it can be removed.

 

Now to remove the other cap. First whack it back into starting position. Put the larger socket on the other side and the smaller socket over the u joint arm with no cap. Again hit the smaller socket to drive the u-joint out into the larger socket. Then remove the cap.

 

The u-joint will now be able to slide out.

This was for the rear diff side of the drive shaft. The trans side is exactly the same, just needs to be done twice over.

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The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…

 

Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.

 

I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would fit.

 

These are the new (totally over-specced for my application) bushings to be installed once the arm is painted.

 

The larger rear bushing would in no way fit with the metal shell still in place, so this had to be replaced. I tried using a chisel to break the shell away from the arm and pull it out… this didn’t work so using the chisel I had to fold the outer flange inwards…

 

… this created a kind of seat for an appropriately sized socket to sit on and push (whack) the bushing out – had to make sure that no sharp bits would scratch against the arms bushing surface, but the folding in of the shell flange meant the edges that would press against the wall are rounded inwards, so no problem there.

 

The bushing is out.

 

Ready for prep then paint then new bushings to be installed:

Getting ready to mount the engine for a rebuild. So, with it still on the crane had to remove the torque convertor and flywheel (AKA flex plate).

 

It is held on by 3 bolts, and access is limited. Found one place (the low left as you look at the flywheel) that a socket would fit and also hit against the side of the engine to stop the torque converter rotating as force is applied. To reach the other bolts it’s needed to rotate the fly wheel and torque converter – it’s possible to do by hand.

 

Once the other 2 bolts are out the torque converter will be off.

 

Now to get the flywheel off, this is held tightly in place by 6 bolts. To loosen the nuts you’ll need to stop the flywheel from rotating as you use the wrench. I just slid a socket extender bar through an access hole and hoped it hit something and stopping the flywheel from spinning – it did, it made contact with the oil sump. Then used a socket and an extender bar.

 

Once the bolts are out the flywheel will easily slide off.

 

The engine ready for mounting:

Cleaned transmission.

7 June 2008

Before (large chunks of dirt and grease have been scraped off):

Applying Gunk degreaser:

After first application of Gunk and pressure washing:

And, after second application of Gunk (from here it’ll be hand sanded and polished cleaned some more and painted black.):