Well OK it’s still not on 4 wheels… but it’s getting there.


Will update with details later, but for now, a picture…


Finally… an update!

15 July 2009

So, where the car stands… 2 noise complaints from the council down the line, all the grinding of welds is done. The body and panels have been shotblasted again and not by a cowboy with an air compressor and a bucket of sand, this time hopefully by a professional. Everything is primered in Eastwood epoxy.






The subframe has been fully rebuilt with new nut-end-style control arm shafts. Also had the lower ball joints pushed in. I have a few old bolts to replace, and a couple parts to touch up with paint, but this is now pretty much done. The axle has had new bearings, I am currently waiting on new studs for the wheels, and once these arrive the wheels can be put on, and this too will be done.


So from here, the underbody of the car is going to have all the welds sealed and then the whole thing sprayed with underseal. Then, back onto the subframe and axle… i.e. 4 wheels!

Installing new bushings.
I don’t have access to a press, so a hammer had to suffice. To install them, start with positioning one bushing in place, then slide the shaft into the inner sleeve, then position the other bushing with the other end of the shaft going into this inner sleeve. I used one the my old bushing shells to hit these new bushings as it was a good fit, to hit the metal flange and not the rubber.


Here it is all done.


Installing new ball joint.


If not already done so the old holes for the rivets of the old ball joint need to be opened up to allow the new bolts to fit. Also the surface should be smoothed.


Install the rubber boot on the ball joint and place through the upper control arm opening, then put the metal boot over the rubber one. The instructions say to have the metal boot on the ball joint, then press through the hole, but no way would this fit.


I found the only way to be able to install the four bolts (nuts on top) is to install 2 bolts in 2 opposite corner with no washers… this would pull everything together allowing the other 2 bolts with washers to be installed and then the first 2 installed correctly.




Installing rubber bumper.
This just pushes (and twists) into place.


Installing control arm onto the subframe.
To tell left from right is pretty simple… it’ll look wrong if it is wrong. The ball joint won’t line up with where the lower one will be.


Place the bolts through the subframe mounts. Slide the shaft over the bolts and install the original shims, then put nuts on the bolts.


Lastly, install the bushing end cap and bolts into the shaft.


All done.

Rebuilding the steering linkage.


Started by bolting the steering gearbox to the subframe. This is held on by 3 bolts.


Then I found the old tie-rods and assembled the new ones to roughly the same length.


Then attach them to the centre-link.


Last bits to attach to the centre-link are the pitman arm and the idler arm. Once these are on the centre-link it is just a case of offering the assembly to the subframe, slide the pitman arm over the gearbox shaft (there is only one orientation that will work with the idler arm and centre oriented correctly as in the picture). Then put the large washer and bolt over the steering gearbox shaft and bolting the idler arm to the frame (the new idler arm does not come with new bolts so the old ones could be reused if in good condition or new replacements).


Now, ready for the control arms. All the bolts just installed need to be torqued to spec, but I’ll do that once a) I have a torque wrench, and b) when there are more components installed and more bolts to torque.

Subframe so far.

24 May 2008

Cavity waxing.

14 May 2008

For this I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 (anti-corrosion for cavities). Only way to tell if it’s really any good is to wait a few years. It certainly applied easily and got good coverage, and is definitely water repellent. When it dries it has a rubbery flexible feeling.

Subframe inside. Before and After: