To remove the crankshaft pulley and timing chain cover…


To remove the pulley is simple. It’s held on by 6 bolts to the harmonic balancer. It may be necessary to slide something (screwdriver etc) through an access hole to stop the pulley from rotating.


Now to remove the harmonic balancer. A screwdriver through a hole will stop it from rotating. A large bar on the end of the socket will probably be needed, and loosen in the normal (anti-clockwise) direction.


Once the bolt is out the harmonic balancer will just slide off the crankshaft.


Now the timing chain cover can be removed, this is bolted to the block in 4 places.


First remove the valve covers.


Then the valley cover.


Now remove the rocker arm assemblies, these are held on by a nut. Now the push rod can be pulled out. Be sure to organise where eveything came from, so if need be it can go back in the same place. I used cardboard, polystyrene and bags and numbered everything.


Now the valve lifters can be removed by pulling out. I had one that must be very slightly burred on the bottom and would not pull out. It’ll have to wait until the cam shaft is out and drop out that way. Wrapped the valve lifter and rocker arm up and put them in a bag, numbered and put next to the corresponding push rod.


Engine looking a bit bare.


There are 10 bolts holding the head to the block. My Chiltons manual didn’t match up to my engine so I didn’t know the proper order to loosen bolts, shouldn’t matter too much – I loosened the middle 2 then the 2 to the left of the middle, then the right, then far left and finally far right. Then removed each one in the same order. The cylinder head will now simply lift off – it may need to be prised from the block gently to separate the gasket.


1 – The cylinder head. 2 and 3 – the engine with the heads removed.

Mounting the engine.

18 July 2008

The engine. I see a clown face…


1 – The mounting bracket.  2 – A box of 50 Grade 8 3.5″ 3/8 UNC bolts. I only want 4.  3 – 100 Grade 8 3/8 washers.
I had to ship the bolts and washers in from the USA as I could not find any Grade 8 imperial hardware anywhere in the UK. And the only place that shipped internationally only had packs of 50 bolts. I guess eBay is about to see a box of 46 Grade 8, 3 1/2″, 3/8 UNC bolts.
Note: I did get some Grade 5 bolts that might have done, but I personally wasn’t happy letting them take the whole weight of the engine, so decided to wait for Grade 8 and with it peace of mind.


1 – The bolt screwed almost all the way into the engine block. 2 – Work out how many washers need to take up the slack.


1 – For some reason a couple of the bracket arm would not reach to the engine block and needed to be packed out on both sides. 2 – All done, ready for alignment then tightening. 3 – Alignment, a good trick. Had some long length of bolt stud that could be screwed through a bracket hole, then used a spirit level to find perfect vertical. 3 – Tightening. Now the bracket is aligned everything can be tightened.


Now for the fun bit… This took me a number of attempts to get right.
1 – I had to move the strap off of the oil sump so allow for a few more inches of reach. 2 – Simple enough… get it from the crane onto the mount stand.


Mating the mounting bracket to the stand.


1 – slack off the hoist straps… and the engine is floating! 2 – can do away with the bulky crane for now. 3 – The engine mounted.


I also drained a remainder of oil from the sump, and removed the sump.

The engine in it’s very own, new, home:


1 – the intake manifold.  2 – all the manifold bolts removed, I didn’t follow a sequence for undoing them just dotted about loosening each one gradually.  3 – hard to see but there was a bolt that is screwed into the manifold with a nut holding it to the timing chain cover. This would not play nice, so I had to chop it in two.


1 – the intake manifold.  2 – the engine minus the intake manifold.


The exhaust manifold unbolted. In the left picture you can see the two sheared bolts I have in the exhaust flange plate.


1 – The fan drive spinny thing to be removed. And the alternator bracket about to be taken off.   2 – The parts removed.


The engine stripped semi bare.

The driveshaft universal joint to be removed. This doesn’t rotate smoothly – it’s very clunky – so a new one will be installed after the shaft is painted.


First step is to remove the retaining C-clips. Any tool with a point will do for this.


Now the u-joint will be able to move (forcibly, not freely) for the next step. Put a socket larger than the u-joint bearing cap underneath, like shown, and a smaller one on top, also like shown. Hit the top, smaller, one and the whole u-joint will move down with the bottom bearing cap going into the larger socket. Once the lower cap is out of the drive shaft it can be removed.


Now to remove the other cap. First whack it back into starting position. Put the larger socket on the other side and the smaller socket over the u joint arm with no cap. Again hit the smaller socket to drive the u-joint out into the larger socket. Then remove the cap.


The u-joint will now be able to slide out.

This was for the rear diff side of the drive shaft. The trans side is exactly the same, just needs to be done twice over.

The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…


Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.


I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would fit.


These are the new (totally over-specced for my application) bushings to be installed once the arm is painted.


The larger rear bushing would in no way fit with the metal shell still in place, so this had to be replaced. I tried using a chisel to break the shell away from the arm and pull it out… this didn’t work so using the chisel I had to fold the outer flange inwards…


… this created a kind of seat for an appropriately sized socket to sit on and push (whack) the bushing out – had to make sure that no sharp bits would scratch against the arms bushing surface, but the folding in of the shell flange meant the edges that would press against the wall are rounded inwards, so no problem there.


The bushing is out.


Ready for prep then paint then new bushings to be installed:

Getting ready to mount the engine for a rebuild. So, with it still on the crane had to remove the torque convertor and flywheel (AKA flex plate).


It is held on by 3 bolts, and access is limited. Found one place (the low left as you look at the flywheel) that a socket would fit and also hit against the side of the engine to stop the torque converter rotating as force is applied. To reach the other bolts it’s needed to rotate the fly wheel and torque converter – it’s possible to do by hand.


Once the other 2 bolts are out the torque converter will be off.


Now to get the flywheel off, this is held tightly in place by 6 bolts. To loosen the nuts you’ll need to stop the flywheel from rotating as you use the wrench. I just slid a socket extender bar through an access hole and hoped it hit something and stopping the flywheel from spinning – it did, it made contact with the oil sump. Then used a socket and an extender bar.


Once the bolts are out the flywheel will easily slide off.


The engine ready for mounting: