Installing new bushings.
I don’t have access to a press, so a hammer had to suffice. To install them, start with positioning one bushing in place, then slide the shaft into the inner sleeve, then position the other bushing with the other end of the shaft going into this inner sleeve. I used one the my old bushing shells to hit these new bushings as it was a good fit, to hit the metal flange and not the rubber.

 

Here it is all done.

 

Installing new ball joint.

 

If not already done so the old holes for the rivets of the old ball joint need to be opened up to allow the new bolts to fit. Also the surface should be smoothed.

 

Install the rubber boot on the ball joint and place through the upper control arm opening, then put the metal boot over the rubber one. The instructions say to have the metal boot on the ball joint, then press through the hole, but no way would this fit.

 

I found the only way to be able to install the four bolts (nuts on top) is to install 2 bolts in 2 opposite corner with no washers… this would pull everything together allowing the other 2 bolts with washers to be installed and then the first 2 installed correctly.

 

Done.

 

Installing rubber bumper.
This just pushes (and twists) into place.

 

Installing control arm onto the subframe.
To tell left from right is pretty simple… it’ll look wrong if it is wrong. The ball joint won’t line up with where the lower one will be.

 

Place the bolts through the subframe mounts. Slide the shaft over the bolts and install the original shims, then put nuts on the bolts.

 

Lastly, install the bushing end cap and bolts into the shaft.

 

All done.

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The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…

 

Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.

 

I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would fit.

 

These are the new (totally over-specced for my application) bushings to be installed once the arm is painted.

 

The larger rear bushing would in no way fit with the metal shell still in place, so this had to be replaced. I tried using a chisel to break the shell away from the arm and pull it out… this didn’t work so using the chisel I had to fold the outer flange inwards…

 

… this created a kind of seat for an appropriately sized socket to sit on and push (whack) the bushing out – had to make sure that no sharp bits would scratch against the arms bushing surface, but the folding in of the shell flange meant the edges that would press against the wall are rounded inwards, so no problem there.

 

The bushing is out.

 

Ready for prep then paint then new bushings to be installed:

Somehow I missed this earlier. Had to remove the rest of the ball joint from the lower control arm. Thankfully it was easy to do.

 

This is the thing to remove:

 

Just hit it with a hammer around the edges…

 

…until it starts to break free…

 

…then hit it some more until it’s completely out.

 

Some cleaning to do then it’s ready for a new ball joint to be installed…

(Removing bushing sleeves from lower control arm.) Didn’t know for certain that the new lower control arm bushings would include the outer metal sleeves. But they do:

 

So, had to remove all of the ones I left in previously, in case I didn’t get new ones.

 

Simply used a chisel, hammer and brute force…

 

… and lots of WD40…

 

… to eventually get them all out.

 

Then used an angle grinder to smooth any burring out.

 

Then just repeat 3 more times for each bushing. Will probably now have to strip the control arms and repaint (the sides not photographed are a lot more ugly)… oh well.

Took out the rear shocks and leaf springs. Someone in the past did a rather shitty repair for one of the rear shocks where it had rotted and fallen through the trunk pan mounts, they made a bodge plate and bolted it to the rear frame. To get the leaf springs out was a little tricky; a couple of the front bracket mount bolts just turned as they had separated from a retaining clip, one of the bolts through the shackle at the back was rounded and both were rusted inside the spring. To overcome these problems I decided to go through the floor and trunk pans as this was quickest, easiest and are to be replaced anyway.

Troublesome bolt under floor pans holding the leaf spring mount bracket:

Cut the hole in the floorpan. Can now hold still the nut on this side of the bolt and loosen from the other.

Troublesome shackle mounting bolt for rear of leaf spring under trunk pan:

Cut the hole in the trunk pan. Now have room to fit a socket to make unbolting easier and be able to use a drift pin (another bolt) and a hammer to knock the bolt out of the bushing.

Shocks and assorted other bits taken off:

Leaf springs:

Under car: