Work in progress.
Should be updated soon…

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Prepping more parts.

22 July 2008

The latest batch of parts to be painted. Sadly not the last.

 

1 – Marine Clean applied by spray bottle. 2 – Jet blast Marine Clean off. 3 – After degreasing.

 

Forgot about the axle, so time to degrease that.

 

Nice picture showing the colour of the degreasant being blasted off, obviously works.

 

Drying after being degreased.

 

Time to pre-prime with Metal Ready. Again applied by spray bottle.

 

After Metal Ready application. It leaves a zinc coating (white) on the metal. This is apparently the best surface key for POR-15 paint to adhere to.

First of all was to separate the steering centre-link from the idler arm, pitman shaft, and old tie-rods.

This is as simple as removing a pin, undoing a nut, knocking with a hammer and repeating. Easier said than done with something this rusty.

And afterwards:

 

Had the sway bar and, now, the centre link to grind the rust away.

 

With most of the rust gone on most of the bits, it is time to use the shot blast to get into the hard – and impossible – to reach areas. It was actually very effective doing it this way, the shot-blasting was not a slow process and not tedious.

The rear end being done:

Before/after of the rear traction bar:

And here is everything, all done and ready for paint.

 

Still had the wheel backing plates to do. I tried them in the rust remover solution, in a larger pot.
Before, during and after the process:

Note that the top 2 backing plates were done with solution that was almost black and should’ve been thrown away, but I had none left so had to reuse the old stuff. The POR-15 paint won’t mind anyway.

The hocus pocus:
Had lots of little parts, with lots of rust that needed to be removed. Best way is to use a dip solution. I used Bilt Hamber Laboratories Deox C concentrated rust remover. It is a white powder that gets diluted in water (yes, water). A kilo of this powder can make up to 20 litres of rust removing solution. I found this to be very effective and efficient. Best results definitely come when the solution is heated, it’s very rapid acting this way.

Here’s the tub of the stuff:

 

First is to wire brush away any loose rust, and then degrease the parts – I used Gunk followed by white spirits.

 

Then into an old cooking pot on top of the hob. Pour in the solution and heat. The third picture shows the colour of the solution after just a few seconds. It turns from clear to yellow/green getting darker until it is black. It can be used up to the point it turns black, then it is all spent.

 

1- In the pot for a few minutes… 2- A few minutes after that… 3- And a few more minutes after that.

 

After the first bout, I decided to put them all in again.

 

Some of the other batches of bits to be treated. Includes steering knuckles, accelerator rod, sway bar brackets and many nuts and bolts.

 

And voila, like new, all the bits treated:

 

And more rust removal:

The parts that I actually did were the radiator support, 2 subframe support plates, leaf spring brackets, reservoir bracket.

Spent today breathing in lots of rust dust. I had planned on shot-blasting away most of the rust with the thought that a new compressor and gun would make the job a piece of cake. It is still very time consuming and tedious, so to speed it up I’ve used a flap wheel on an angle grinder to get most of the rust away, then plan to use the shot-blaster to get into corners, folds etc.

 

The rear axle before, then after.

 

The drive shaft before and after:

 

Assorted front support bits before and after (and the drive shaft again, don’t know why) (and the rear traction bar has been done).

Subframe so far.

24 May 2008