First remove the valve covers.

 

Then the valley cover.

 

Now remove the rocker arm assemblies, these are held on by a nut. Now the push rod can be pulled out. Be sure to organise where eveything came from, so if need be it can go back in the same place. I used cardboard, polystyrene and bags and numbered everything.

 

Now the valve lifters can be removed by pulling out. I had one that must be very slightly burred on the bottom and would not pull out. It’ll have to wait until the cam shaft is out and drop out that way. Wrapped the valve lifter and rocker arm up and put them in a bag, numbered and put next to the corresponding push rod.

 

Engine looking a bit bare.

 

There are 10 bolts holding the head to the block. My Chiltons manual didn’t match up to my engine so I didn’t know the proper order to loosen bolts, shouldn’t matter too much – I loosened the middle 2 then the 2 to the left of the middle, then the right, then far left and finally far right. Then removed each one in the same order. The cylinder head will now simply lift off – it may need to be prised from the block gently to separate the gasket.

 

1 – The cylinder head. 2 and 3 – the engine with the heads removed.

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The engine in it’s very own, new, home:

 

1 – the intake manifold.  2 – all the manifold bolts removed, I didn’t follow a sequence for undoing them just dotted about loosening each one gradually.  3 – hard to see but there was a bolt that is screwed into the manifold with a nut holding it to the timing chain cover. This would not play nice, so I had to chop it in two.

 

1 – the intake manifold.  2 – the engine minus the intake manifold.

 

The exhaust manifold unbolted. In the left picture you can see the two sheared bolts I have in the exhaust flange plate.

 

1 – The fan drive spinny thing to be removed. And the alternator bracket about to be taken off.   2 – The parts removed.

 

The engine stripped semi bare.

The driveshaft universal joint to be removed. This doesn’t rotate smoothly – it’s very clunky – so a new one will be installed after the shaft is painted.

 

First step is to remove the retaining C-clips. Any tool with a point will do for this.

 

Now the u-joint will be able to move (forcibly, not freely) for the next step. Put a socket larger than the u-joint bearing cap underneath, like shown, and a smaller one on top, also like shown. Hit the top, smaller, one and the whole u-joint will move down with the bottom bearing cap going into the larger socket. Once the lower cap is out of the drive shaft it can be removed.

 

Now to remove the other cap. First whack it back into starting position. Put the larger socket on the other side and the smaller socket over the u joint arm with no cap. Again hit the smaller socket to drive the u-joint out into the larger socket. Then remove the cap.

 

The u-joint will now be able to slide out.

This was for the rear diff side of the drive shaft. The trans side is exactly the same, just needs to be done twice over.

The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…

 

Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.

 

I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would fit.

 

These are the new (totally over-specced for my application) bushings to be installed once the arm is painted.

 

The larger rear bushing would in no way fit with the metal shell still in place, so this had to be replaced. I tried using a chisel to break the shell away from the arm and pull it out… this didn’t work so using the chisel I had to fold the outer flange inwards…

 

… this created a kind of seat for an appropriately sized socket to sit on and push (whack) the bushing out – had to make sure that no sharp bits would scratch against the arms bushing surface, but the folding in of the shell flange meant the edges that would press against the wall are rounded inwards, so no problem there.

 

The bushing is out.

 

Ready for prep then paint then new bushings to be installed:

Somehow I missed this earlier. Had to remove the rest of the ball joint from the lower control arm. Thankfully it was easy to do.

 

This is the thing to remove:

 

Just hit it with a hammer around the edges…

 

…until it starts to break free…

 

…then hit it some more until it’s completely out.

 

Some cleaning to do then it’s ready for a new ball joint to be installed…

(Removing bushing sleeves from lower control arm.) Didn’t know for certain that the new lower control arm bushings would include the outer metal sleeves. But they do:

 

So, had to remove all of the ones I left in previously, in case I didn’t get new ones.

 

Simply used a chisel, hammer and brute force…

 

… and lots of WD40…

 

… to eventually get them all out.

 

Then used an angle grinder to smooth any burring out.

 

Then just repeat 3 more times for each bushing. Will probably now have to strip the control arms and repaint (the sides not photographed are a lot more ugly)… oh well.

This is the rear brake assembly mounted to the rear axle.

 

To remove the backing plate the whole axle shaft needs to be removed. Begin by dismantling the old brakes. See here for a detailed step-by-step process.

 

Once the brakes are off, you can get to 4 mounting bolts holding the backing plate to the axle – through the access hole in the wheel rotor.

 

Don’t forget to remove the brake lines from the middle of the rear end (on top of the differential) into the slave cylinder.

 

Once these 4 bolts are off the axle shaft will just slide out. Note that there is no need to go into the differential to remove the axles as my Chiltons manual suggested.

 

Now the axle is out, the backing plates will slide off.

 

Install the axle shafts back in the rear end, to prevent damage.

 

Here is what that work was for: