And the second floor is in.

23 December 2008

There were too many little rust holes to patch up, so the whole floor is to be replaced. First was to decide and mark out how much of the old floor to cut out.


Then, the cut out section is overlaid on the new floor pan and drawn around. Then enlarge the outline by about an inch or so all around and cut out the new pan.


The new floor pan. Laid onto the car to see if any more trimming needs to be done and to mark out the boundries for where the paint needs to be stripped on the car. Note that the cutout I made a while ago when removing the leaf springs now gets patched up by the new floor pan.


The paint stripped from the body, now ready to be welded. I’ve marked on the new pan every 1.5 inches where a hole will be drilled or punched for the plug welds. Then once all the holes have been made, grind the holes and cut edges clean.


The new pan is now ready to be welded in place. I’ve only tacked it (and the other side) in a few places for now but all the holes will be plug welded shortly… And possibly seam welded for an inch between the plugs for extra strength, but I’m considering whether or not this is needed.


The first floor in.

22 December 2008

Welded the rear end section a bit more, but have decided I’m going to go round and do all the welds in one go (a few will be done when installing the panels to hold them in position and for body strength)… so I will proceed with installing more panels. Today I put in the new right side rear floor pan. This was very straightforward… Cut the old one out, cut the new floor oversized an inch or so and then plug weld into the the car.



I only filled a few of the plug weld holes (for now), but the floor is now very solid, and importantly, free from rust holes.

Been busy…

21 December 2008

Haven’t had much too much time for the car in the last couple of months… But a fair bit has been done. The trunk pan is in, the right hand shock mount, trunk extension and trunk filler panels have all been put in, and so has the inner and outer wheelhouses.



There is still a load of spot (plug with my MIG) welds to do and also some seams welds to tidy up and grind down. But everything is all in and not going anywhere. Quite impressed with how everything has lined up. There’ll be a more detailed step-by-step post for the left hand side. Next thing I do though will probably be the floors, as there are a few extra problems with the left hand side shock mount which has rotted away to nothing – so a fair bit of work needs to be done to make it structurally sound… so I’ll just delay the problem, and do the floors first.

Rebuilding brakes.

7 August 2008

Front brakes
The backing plate (the flattened edge and the self-adjuster screw slot point towards the rear, so this plate is for the right-hand side), assorted hardware and the self-adjuster screw (thick grooves for the front, thin for the back).

The brake cylinder installed, the bolts holes only align one way with the holes on the backing plates, so it’s not possible to install a right-hand cylinder on a left-hand backing plate. The plungers pushed into the ends of the cylinder.

The brake shoes, the backing plate greased, and the shoe positioned on the backing plate. The pair of shoes consist of one long and one short. The longer shoe points to the rear, the shorter one to the front.

The self adjuster hardware:

Self adjuster bracket on the shoe, and the hold-down spring for this shoe.

For this shoe (with the self adjuster) a number 4 pin has to be used. With one hand holding the pin in place (through the back of the plate, through the shoe and the self adjuster and into the spring) use a pair of pliers to push down on the top of the spring and rotate to hold the pin in place.

The front shoe put in place and its hold-down spring. This side has a washer underneath the spring.

This little bracket plate gets put on just above the hydraulic cylinder. Then a solid bar ties this plate to the self adjuster bracket. Now is a good time to put the spring on the bottom of the self adjuster.

These two green springs are identical (no left or right). They hook onto the brake shoes and stretch to the bracket plate up top.

Now for the spring holding the bottoms of the shoes together (note that it is wrong in these pictures… instead of the rear-shoe-side of the spring being hooked from underneath, it should be hooked from the top – this is so the self-adjuster screw can actually fit). Then the self adjuster screw can be put in (better to do this before the spring), be careful of the orientation of threads on the self adjuster (right or left hand threaded). Lastly, the spring on the self adjuster bracket can be installed.


Rear brakes
The brake hardware. There is more hardware than for the front due to the parking brake assembly. Note the thin grooves for the rear self-adjuster screws.

The rear backing plate (the adjuster slot at the bottom “points” to the rear, so this is the right-side) greased. The parking cable. And the parking cable and brake cylinder installed.

The parking brake lever installed on the cable. To make it all fit the parking cable has to be pulled tight and held that way (grips on the end work). This lever fits underneath the rear shoe.

Fitting the hold down springs and pins…

More parking brake mechanisms. Note the alignment of the rear shoe and the parking brake lever underneath it. It’s also clear to see where the cylinder plungers go. The parking brake bar is pronged on either end – the wide prongs go to the shoe with the parking brake lever. The protruding section of the middle bar should stick out from the brake. The spring on the bar is oval – this should go on the shoe without the parking brake.

A bendy bar and more springs…

The self adjuster screw installed, and the last spring (self adjuster bracket):


…Fully rebuilt!

Installing new bushings.
I don’t have access to a press, so a hammer had to suffice. To install them, start with positioning one bushing in place, then slide the shaft into the inner sleeve, then position the other bushing with the other end of the shaft going into this inner sleeve. I used one the my old bushing shells to hit these new bushings as it was a good fit, to hit the metal flange and not the rubber.


Here it is all done.


Installing new ball joint.


If not already done so the old holes for the rivets of the old ball joint need to be opened up to allow the new bolts to fit. Also the surface should be smoothed.


Install the rubber boot on the ball joint and place through the upper control arm opening, then put the metal boot over the rubber one. The instructions say to have the metal boot on the ball joint, then press through the hole, but no way would this fit.


I found the only way to be able to install the four bolts (nuts on top) is to install 2 bolts in 2 opposite corner with no washers… this would pull everything together allowing the other 2 bolts with washers to be installed and then the first 2 installed correctly.




Installing rubber bumper.
This just pushes (and twists) into place.


Installing control arm onto the subframe.
To tell left from right is pretty simple… it’ll look wrong if it is wrong. The ball joint won’t line up with where the lower one will be.


Place the bolts through the subframe mounts. Slide the shaft over the bolts and install the original shims, then put nuts on the bolts.


Lastly, install the bushing end cap and bolts into the shaft.


All done.

Rebuilding the steering linkage.


Started by bolting the steering gearbox to the subframe. This is held on by 3 bolts.


Then I found the old tie-rods and assembled the new ones to roughly the same length.


Then attach them to the centre-link.


Last bits to attach to the centre-link are the pitman arm and the idler arm. Once these are on the centre-link it is just a case of offering the assembly to the subframe, slide the pitman arm over the gearbox shaft (there is only one orientation that will work with the idler arm and centre oriented correctly as in the picture). Then put the large washer and bolt over the steering gearbox shaft and bolting the idler arm to the frame (the new idler arm does not come with new bolts so the old ones could be reused if in good condition or new replacements).


Now, ready for the control arms. All the bolts just installed need to be torqued to spec, but I’ll do that once a) I have a torque wrench, and b) when there are more components installed and more bolts to torque.