First was to get the door off the car, and then remove the existing remnants of skin. The easiest way to do that was to just grind away at the folded edges… So, the left, right and bottom edges of the skin need to be ground down.

… but no need to do the top edge, as the whole support rail on the top side of the skin is replaced with the new skin… for the top all that is needed to do is to drill out the spot welds on the two tabs (I cut through them to seperate the skin, then drilled later). Also, there will be a spot weld on the side face of the shell where an L-shaped bracket near the door handle is spot-welded to.

Once the edges are ground away and the top edge sorted the skin will just lift off.

Back to the shell, there will still be some grinding to do to remove the lip of the door skin that was folded over. Grind away at the few spot welds along the circumference and the remaining lip will peel off.


Now for the new skin… this just sits on top like the old one. The edges will need to be folded over and I am waiting to get a decent hammer and proper dolly before attempting this.


So today the driver side quarter was finished, cut to size and shape, and tacked into position.


First was to cut away some more of the old quarter. I cut an inch below the top edge and about two inches from the door. A centimetre above the lower contour line. And at the back end there’s about an inch of wrap around. I also painted (with POR-15) some bare metal that will be hidden when the quarter is on.

Then the replacement is put on the car and aligned. From the inside of the car trace on the quarter panel where the existing quarter has been cut away.

Cut a centimetre larger than this outline all round (the initial alignment is critical, so take care and most importantly ensure the middle contour line properly follows the original). Then offer it back up to the car and clamp in place. Outline onto the car.

On this new outline use a flange tool to recess the existing metal, allowing the new replacement to sit flush. Only flange the existing metal along the top. The door edge and rear edge of the existing metal will not be able to be flanged as various bits of metal are in the way to prevent this. Instead, flange the replacement skin on these edges. This means, that the door and rear edges of the replacement tuck under, and the top sits on top of the existing metal, so everything is flush. For the lower contour line of the replacement cut on the line and flange a centimetre above this.


Now it’s time to weld…


Also I completely removed the original door skin and mocked up the replacement… things are starting to look quite exciting…

Today got the right hand rear quarter tacked in place. With the quarter on it’s starting to feel like a car again!


Also started cutting the left hand quarter to shape, and that should be tacked in place tomorrow. I’ve taken some in-progress pictures for the left hand side so I’ll post them soonish.

Left side rear end rebuilt

8 February 2009

Since the last post… New sheet metal for the shock mount, trunk pan extension, quarter filler panel, and inner and outer wheelhouses… and rebuilt structural shock mount area.

I’ll add some more detailed step-by-step pictures shortly.


Still a lot of grinding, welding and more grinding and welding to do…

Passenger floor replaced

31 December 2008




Driver floor now exists.

29 December 2008

Here is (what remains of) the original driver side floor. Somewhat lacking in metal.


The replacement pan to be cut on the black line. And positioned in situ. The panel doesn’t fit too well; the recesses do not line up with the originals under the car… It’s as if everything needs to be shifted half an inch to the left but the left edge of the pan is restricting that – so this left edge will have to be reshaped (bashed with a hammer and heat) to allow the whole pan to be correctly aligned.


1. The outer line is the outline of the new pan. The inner line is what is to be cut away of the original floor. 2. The old floor cut out.


1. The replacement pan has been reshaped slightly and now fits snugly. It has been trimmed round the edges to allow for an inch of overlap on the original floor. 2. The new inner line is where the replacement panel now sits. I also did some more cutting away of the original floor – the main thing is the far left side of the old floor has been cut flush to the rocker. 3. The new pan with holes punched around the perimeter at 1.5″ spacing and the original floor ground down to clean metal, ready for welding.


And after, welded in place:

Rear seat rust repair.

27 December 2008

Was just going to do a small patch job to the side of the support plate (it’s the plate that the traction arm bolts to from underneath). But thought I had better remove the plate and see the extent of the damage… It was pretty ugly underneath, with a lot of metal rotted to nothing and a fair few pinholes. So it’d be best to do a larger patch panel.




After drilling out the original spot-welds on the plate, and after cleaning and painting with POR-15.


The repair panel, cut to shape and positioned.


The patch panel plug welded in place. The holes were made going from the underneath as the original panel is still there. The strengthening plate was then put back and plug welded. Again, not all the welds are done just yet, just enough to hold everything in place – (this way I get to see progress…)


And a general state of things:


Next will be to fill some more of the welds then move onto the front floor pans.