The engine in it’s very own, new, home:


1 – the intake manifold.  2 – all the manifold bolts removed, I didn’t follow a sequence for undoing them just dotted about loosening each one gradually.  3 – hard to see but there was a bolt that is screwed into the manifold with a nut holding it to the timing chain cover. This would not play nice, so I had to chop it in two.


1 – the intake manifold.  2 – the engine minus the intake manifold.


The exhaust manifold unbolted. In the left picture you can see the two sheared bolts I have in the exhaust flange plate.


1 – The fan drive spinny thing to be removed. And the alternator bracket about to be taken off.   2 – The parts removed.


The engine stripped semi bare.


The driveshaft universal joint to be removed. This doesn’t rotate smoothly – it’s very clunky – so a new one will be installed after the shaft is painted.


First step is to remove the retaining C-clips. Any tool with a point will do for this.


Now the u-joint will be able to move (forcibly, not freely) for the next step. Put a socket larger than the u-joint bearing cap underneath, like shown, and a smaller one on top, also like shown. Hit the top, smaller, one and the whole u-joint will move down with the bottom bearing cap going into the larger socket. Once the lower cap is out of the drive shaft it can be removed.


Now to remove the other cap. First whack it back into starting position. Put the larger socket on the other side and the smaller socket over the u joint arm with no cap. Again hit the smaller socket to drive the u-joint out into the larger socket. Then remove the cap.


The u-joint will now be able to slide out.

This was for the rear diff side of the drive shaft. The trans side is exactly the same, just needs to be done twice over.

The traction arm aka radius rod aka torque arm aka whatever else…


Pressure wouldn’t budge these bushings so the alternative was this. The traction arm front bushing being burned out with a weed burning torch.


I burned the rear one out as I wasn’t sure how the new ‘Ultimate Performance High Technology Polygraphite’ (overkill compared to all my other rubbers, but it’s all I could find) bushings would fit.


These are the new (totally over-specced for my application) bushings to be installed once the arm is painted.


The larger rear bushing would in no way fit with the metal shell still in place, so this had to be replaced. I tried using a chisel to break the shell away from the arm and pull it out… this didn’t work so using the chisel I had to fold the outer flange inwards…


… this created a kind of seat for an appropriately sized socket to sit on and push (whack) the bushing out – had to make sure that no sharp bits would scratch against the arms bushing surface, but the folding in of the shell flange meant the edges that would press against the wall are rounded inwards, so no problem there.


The bushing is out.


Ready for prep then paint then new bushings to be installed:

Getting ready to mount the engine for a rebuild. So, with it still on the crane had to remove the torque convertor and flywheel (AKA flex plate).


It is held on by 3 bolts, and access is limited. Found one place (the low left as you look at the flywheel) that a socket would fit and also hit against the side of the engine to stop the torque converter rotating as force is applied. To reach the other bolts it’s needed to rotate the fly wheel and torque converter – it’s possible to do by hand.


Once the other 2 bolts are out the torque converter will be off.


Now to get the flywheel off, this is held tightly in place by 6 bolts. To loosen the nuts you’ll need to stop the flywheel from rotating as you use the wrench. I just slid a socket extender bar through an access hole and hoped it hit something and stopping the flywheel from spinning – it did, it made contact with the oil sump. Then used a socket and an extender bar.


Once the bolts are out the flywheel will easily slide off.


The engine ready for mounting:

Somehow I missed this earlier. Had to remove the rest of the ball joint from the lower control arm. Thankfully it was easy to do.


This is the thing to remove:


Just hit it with a hammer around the edges…


…until it starts to break free…


…then hit it some more until it’s completely out.


Some cleaning to do then it’s ready for a new ball joint to be installed…

First of all was to separate the steering centre-link from the idler arm, pitman shaft, and old tie-rods.

This is as simple as removing a pin, undoing a nut, knocking with a hammer and repeating. Easier said than done with something this rusty.

And afterwards:


Had the sway bar and, now, the centre link to grind the rust away.


With most of the rust gone on most of the bits, it is time to use the shot blast to get into the hard – and impossible – to reach areas. It was actually very effective doing it this way, the shot-blasting was not a slow process and not tedious.

The rear end being done:

Before/after of the rear traction bar:

And here is everything, all done and ready for paint.


Still had the wheel backing plates to do. I tried them in the rust remover solution, in a larger pot.
Before, during and after the process:

Note that the top 2 backing plates were done with solution that was almost black and should’ve been thrown away, but I had none left so had to reuse the old stuff. The POR-15 paint won’t mind anyway.

The hocus pocus:
Had lots of little parts, with lots of rust that needed to be removed. Best way is to use a dip solution. I used Bilt Hamber Laboratories Deox C concentrated rust remover. It is a white powder that gets diluted in water (yes, water). A kilo of this powder can make up to 20 litres of rust removing solution. I found this to be very effective and efficient. Best results definitely come when the solution is heated, it’s very rapid acting this way.

Here’s the tub of the stuff:


First is to wire brush away any loose rust, and then degrease the parts – I used Gunk followed by white spirits.


Then into an old cooking pot on top of the hob. Pour in the solution and heat. The third picture shows the colour of the solution after just a few seconds. It turns from clear to yellow/green getting darker until it is black. It can be used up to the point it turns black, then it is all spent.


1- In the pot for a few minutes… 2- A few minutes after that… 3- And a few more minutes after that.


After the first bout, I decided to put them all in again.


Some of the other batches of bits to be treated. Includes steering knuckles, accelerator rod, sway bar brackets and many nuts and bolts.


And voila, like new, all the bits treated:


And more rust removal:

The parts that I actually did were the radiator support, 2 subframe support plates, leaf spring brackets, reservoir bracket.