Removing crank shaft.

20 July 2008

To remove the crank shaft, the crank shaft clamps/bearing caps must be removed.
1 – Bearing cap bolts all loosened. 2 – Gently knock the cap free. 3 – The 5 bearing caps.

 

Now the crank shaft can simply be lifted up and out.

 

Now with the engine stripped… you have a very big, very heavy paperweight…

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Removing cam shaft.

19 July 2008

With the timing chain, gears and cover all removed (see previous posts) removing the cam shaft is very simple. Just undo the thrust washer and it’ll slide out (carefully).

 

 

With the timing chain cover off, it is just a case of unbolting the camshaft gear…

 

… And pulling the gear and chain off.

Removing pistons.

19 July 2008

First is to flip the engine upside down and remove the oil pump and pan.

 

Showing the crankshaft and piston connecting rod ends…

 

It may be needed to rotate the crankshaft until a piston connecting rod end in accessible and also in line with the piston.

 

1 – The piston rod bolts undone. 2 – The bearing cap gently knocked free. 3 – The bearing cap removed. 4 – The bearing cap and bolts.

 

1 – Place some rubber hose on the connecting rod studs to prevent damage to the cylinder as the piston is removed. 2 – Two of the head bolts and some elastic bands will catch the pistons as it is pushed out the cylinder. 3 – Place a stick on the piston to be removed and hit the stick with a hammer. This will cause the piston to move through the cylinder…

 

… and out the other end.

 

Then just repeat 7 more times and the engine is piston free.

To remove the crankshaft pulley and timing chain cover…

 

To remove the pulley is simple. It’s held on by 6 bolts to the harmonic balancer. It may be necessary to slide something (screwdriver etc) through an access hole to stop the pulley from rotating.

 

Now to remove the harmonic balancer. A screwdriver through a hole will stop it from rotating. A large bar on the end of the socket will probably be needed, and loosen in the normal (anti-clockwise) direction.

 

Once the bolt is out the harmonic balancer will just slide off the crankshaft.

 

Now the timing chain cover can be removed, this is bolted to the block in 4 places.

First remove the valve covers.

 

Then the valley cover.

 

Now remove the rocker arm assemblies, these are held on by a nut. Now the push rod can be pulled out. Be sure to organise where eveything came from, so if need be it can go back in the same place. I used cardboard, polystyrene and bags and numbered everything.

 

Now the valve lifters can be removed by pulling out. I had one that must be very slightly burred on the bottom and would not pull out. It’ll have to wait until the cam shaft is out and drop out that way. Wrapped the valve lifter and rocker arm up and put them in a bag, numbered and put next to the corresponding push rod.

 

Engine looking a bit bare.

 

There are 10 bolts holding the head to the block. My Chiltons manual didn’t match up to my engine so I didn’t know the proper order to loosen bolts, shouldn’t matter too much – I loosened the middle 2 then the 2 to the left of the middle, then the right, then far left and finally far right. Then removed each one in the same order. The cylinder head will now simply lift off – it may need to be prised from the block gently to separate the gasket.

 

1 – The cylinder head. 2 and 3 – the engine with the heads removed.

Mounting the engine.

18 July 2008

The engine. I see a clown face…

 

1 – The mounting bracket.  2 – A box of 50 Grade 8 3.5″ 3/8 UNC bolts. I only want 4.  3 – 100 Grade 8 3/8 washers.
I had to ship the bolts and washers in from the USA as I could not find any Grade 8 imperial hardware anywhere in the UK. And the only place that shipped internationally only had packs of 50 bolts. I guess eBay is about to see a box of 46 Grade 8, 3 1/2″, 3/8 UNC bolts.
Note: I did get some Grade 5 bolts that might have done, but I personally wasn’t happy letting them take the whole weight of the engine, so decided to wait for Grade 8 and with it peace of mind.

 

1 – The bolt screwed almost all the way into the engine block. 2 – Work out how many washers need to take up the slack.

 

1 – For some reason a couple of the bracket arm would not reach to the engine block and needed to be packed out on both sides. 2 – All done, ready for alignment then tightening. 3 – Alignment, a good trick. Had some long length of bolt stud that could be screwed through a bracket hole, then used a spirit level to find perfect vertical. 3 – Tightening. Now the bracket is aligned everything can be tightened.

 

Now for the fun bit… This took me a number of attempts to get right.
1 – I had to move the strap off of the oil sump so allow for a few more inches of reach. 2 – Simple enough… get it from the crane onto the mount stand.

 

Mating the mounting bracket to the stand.

 

1 – slack off the hoist straps… and the engine is floating! 2 – can do away with the bulky crane for now. 3 – The engine mounted.

 

I also drained a remainder of oil from the sump, and removed the sump.