(Removing bushing sleeves from lower control arm.) Didn’t know for certain that the new lower control arm bushings would include the outer metal sleeves. But they do:


So, had to remove all of the ones I left in previously, in case I didn’t get new ones.


Simply used a chisel, hammer and brute force…


… and lots of WD40…


… to eventually get them all out.


Then used an angle grinder to smooth any burring out.


Then just repeat 3 more times for each bushing. Will probably now have to strip the control arms and repaint (the sides not photographed are a lot more ugly)… oh well.

This is the rear brake assembly mounted to the rear axle.


To remove the backing plate the whole axle shaft needs to be removed. Begin by dismantling the old brakes. See here for a detailed step-by-step process.


Once the brakes are off, you can get to 4 mounting bolts holding the backing plate to the axle – through the access hole in the wheel rotor.


Don’t forget to remove the brake lines from the middle of the rear end (on top of the differential) into the slave cylinder.


Once these 4 bolts are off the axle shaft will just slide out. Note that there is no need to go into the differential to remove the axles as my Chiltons manual suggested.


Now the axle is out, the backing plates will slide off.


Install the axle shafts back in the rear end, to prevent damage.


Here is what that work was for:

Started with this:


Removing wheel studs is easy…

… just hit with a hammer and they pop through. Notice two of the removed studs had sheared, luckily there was still enough to hit with a hammer to knock them out. If there isn’t anything for the hammer to hit just use another wheel stud, thread end touching the broken stud and hit the head with the hammer.


To remove the hub put a piece of wood on the top of it…

And hit the wood, hard, a few times:

The hub is really grimy, so cleaned it by scraping and using Gunk (degreaser).


Dismantling brakes:
Here is the backing plate for one of the front drum brakes.


Not many steps in dismantling. One, undo the nut above the slave cylinder. This allows the knuckle to be seperated with (gentle) taps to backside of it.


Next is to remove the pins holding the brake shoes to the backing plate:

Easiest way is to use needle nose pliers, push down on the top of the spring, while pushing the head of the pin from the other side of the backing plate. Then you can use the pliers to rotate the pin 90 degrees and it’ll pop out the slot.


Now to separate the shoes from the slave cylinder:

Just push/pull…

…to stretch the springs and separate from the cylinder


Next just wiggle free all the brake hardware, and undo two bolts on the back of the backing plate to remove the cylinder.

Finally, something clean and new:

These are all the body panels to be replaced and most of the exhaust system.

All the parts sorted and stored. Practically every component of the steering, suspension and brakes is being replaced.

Some of new fuel and fluid lines:

Cut quarter panel.

11 June 2008

Cut a large section out of the rear quarter to examine how it’s all put together – whilst waiting for the new panels to arrive.

Cleaned transmission.

7 June 2008

Before (large chunks of dirt and grease have been scraped off):

Applying Gunk degreaser:

After first application of Gunk and pressure washing:

And, after second application of Gunk (from here it’ll be hand sanded and polished cleaned some more and painted black.):