From now on I’ll be spraying POR-15 on everything, rather than brushing.

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After grinding:

Quick wash:

Degreasing:

After Metal Ready pre-primer:

Pictures say it all. Just use a chisel and hammer.


This metal outer sleeve gets replaced with a new bushing, so the damage doesn’t matter. The edge of the control arm shaft hole is burred, so will need filing down.

Removing lower control arm ball joints:

Place the old castle nut upside down on the ball joint, and hit hard with a hammer. After successive knocks the ball joint backing plate will fall off and the ball joint will fall through.

 

 

Removing lower control arm bushings:
If after brute force applied there is still no movement of the inner sleeve in the bushing…

Use a blow torch on the rubber bushing, until nice and crispy. If there’s been enough burning of rubber the sleeve will easily tap out. The rubber may still be tricky to remove so it’ll help to use the sleeve just removed and a hammer to get the bushing out, hitting around the edges of the rubber, being sure not to gouge the surrounding metal.

The inner sleeves and bushings from each lower control arm:

And after all that, left with this:

Cavity waxing.

14 May 2008

For this I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 (anti-corrosion for cavities). Only way to tell if it’s really any good is to wait a few years. It certainly applied easily and got good coverage, and is definitely water repellent. When it dries it has a rubbery flexible feeling.

Subframe inside. Before and After:

POR-15 (rust preventative base coat):

POR-15 Chassis-Coat (UV protection top coat):

Painting subframe.

12 May 2008

POR-15 (rust preventative base coat):

This base coat is really good stuff. Goes a long way and all brush strokes smooth out when drying.

POR-15 Chassis-Coat (UV protection top coat):

This top coat is not as good as the base. It cover about half as much, and brushes strokes are inevitable. Once the chassis is done, I’ll apply it by spray gun.